As a formulator and manufacturer of all natural plant-based personal care products, I often get asked if any Dropwise products contain sunscreens. The answer is no. Sunscreens are considered over-the-counter drugs regulated by the FDA, and except for two ingredients, all the sunscreen ingredients currently approved by the FDA are synthetic chemicals –some of which are known to be irritants and toxic.

I’ve researched sun care and sunscreens for some time now in the hopes of finding a breakthrough in natural ingredients that could replace the chemical sunscreens that are prevalent in today’s sun care products. While there are promising developments on the horizon and valid science to support them, we are not there yet.

In the past, having a golden tan was a sign of beauty and health, and sun protection was all about maximizing opportunities to tan while avoiding the pain and discomfort of getting burned. Now, valid or not, the consensus among dermatologists and doctors seems to be that any exposure to the sun is harmful and can lead to cancer.

Yet in spite of the proliferation of products with SPF 30 and greater, and the over blown dire warnings not to ever leave your house without sunscreen, the incidence of skin cancer in the U.S. continues to grow at an alarming rate. So how can you find out what your true risk is?

There are many factors that determine your risk level including what your skin type is; hereditary factors that could make you more risk-prone; where you live (i.e. altitude and latitude); the amount and type of fats in your diet; whether you are taking certain meds; the time of day and length of exposure; and the biggest predictor of all: how much over-exposure you had as a child and young adult.

If you regularly and religiously apply some form of sunscreen, how much you apply, when, where, and how often all affect the product’s ability to successfully filter out the different ultraviolet (UV) rays that damage skin and can cause skin cancer.

Here’s a quick summary of what you need to know:

UVA vs. UVB Radiation. There’s still a debate over which type of exposure is more harmful. UVB rays are what cause sunburns and are also what your body uses to convert sunlight into Vitamin D. Most sunscreens primarily protect against UVB, which was originally thought to be the main cause of skin cancer. Now there is reason to believe that UVA rays cause more skin damage in the long run and play a larger role in skin cancer. There is currently no standard for formulating “broad spectrum” sunscreens that protect against both. Ironically, the Vitamin D that your body gets from UVB exposure plays a vital role in keeping bones and teeth strong, and helps protect against breast, prostate and colon cancers –making a strong case for a minimal amount of daily unprotected exposure.

Diminishing Returns of Higher SPFs. There’s a lot of confusion over how effective higher value SPFs really are at providing more protection. Most consumers think that stepping up from an SPF 15 to an SPF 30 doubles your protection and the amount of time you can stay in the sun. But in fact, because of the way SPF is calculated, this step up actually offers less than a 4% increase in protection! No SPF will absorb 100% of UV rays, so don’t even bother with any product boasting an SPF higher than 30. There’s also growing concern that the lab testing methods used to establish SPFs are not consistent enough to reflect the vagaries of usage and actual conditions created by real sunlight.

Knowing that SPF values may not be entirely accurate, you shouldn’t rely on sunscreen as the sole method of protecting yourself.

Sunscreen vs. Sunblock. Sunscreens fall into two categories: chemical types and physical types. Chemical sunscreens generally absorb UVB radiation (the so-called “burning rays”) and then disperse that energy through chemical reactions –some of which can actually generate those dreaded “free radicals” that lead to cancer. Physical sunscreens -commonly known as sun blocks-come in the old-fashioned form of titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, white creams that reflect radiation rather than absorb it. Sun blocks are the preferred form of sun protection but because of their texture many consumers don’t like them.

Nanoparticles and Micronization. In an attempt to make traditional sun block ingredients more palatable to the consumer, manufacturers have started to micronize the ingredients so they are readily absorbed into the skin and are no longer visible after application — avoiding the whole pasty white war paint effect that make them so unappealing.

Unfortunately, this use of nanotechnology is currently unregulated and has some potentially serious health consequences. A 2006 Friends of the Earth report on the dangers of nanoparticles in skin and sun care products cited scientific research that showed many nanoparticles to be toxic to human tissue and cell structure. Their presence in the body can lead to oxidative stress, DNA mutation, and free radical generation  –all risk factors for cancer. It’s best to avoid this form of sunscreen and stick to the traditional forms of zinc and titanium dioxide.

Natural vs. Synthetic. In addition to the toxicity posed by some chemical sunscreens, you should be concerned about all the other potentially harmful ingredients contained in many sunscreen products. The question to ask yourself is am I simply trading one poison for another?

Here are some additional tips to help you stay sun safe in the dog days of summer:

• Whether you use sunscreen or not, avoid prolonged exposure during the peak hours of 10 AM to 2 PM. Limit your initial exposure to shorter stretches (15 to 30 minutes at a time depending on skin type) until you build up a bit of a base tan, then you can gradually increase the amount of exposure.
• If you’re fair-skinned, wear protective clothing (long sleeves, pants) and a wide-brimmed hat whenever possible, and use a sunblock when in the sun
• Use a plant-based body oil made with coconut, jojoba, grape seed, rose hip seed, carrot and/or hemp seed oils as a pre-sun and after sun moisturizer. Research shows that moisturizers made with Vitamin E and C can help fight the free radicals produced by sun damage.
• Increase your intake of antioxidants through food and supplementation. Again, consuming foods that are high in Vitamins A (Beta Carotene), C and E can also help fight free radicals. This is especially important if you spend a lot of time in the sun!
• Avoid putting citrus essential oils on your skin when going out in the sun as some of them are photo-toxic and can increase your chances of getting burned.
• Stay hydrated. Drink plenty of water and remember shade is your friend!

Copyright 2009 Dropwise Essentials

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